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      02-22-2013, 03:01 PM   #1
matt_335Ci
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Question tips for lifting my F30 on jack stands

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I want to remove all 4 wheels at once to spray, so I am going to use 4 jack stands. i plan on using 2 floor jacks simultaneously lifting off both front jack points, and then positioning 2 jack self locking jack stands under the frame; and then repeat for the rear. Any tips/suggestions?
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      02-22-2013, 03:10 PM   #2
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make sure the surface you're on is perfectly flat....
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      02-22-2013, 03:24 PM   #3
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Do not use scissor jacks to secure a car. Use only self locking jack stands.

The jack stand are supposed to go in the jack points. It's not clear if putting them randomly under the frame will not damage the frame. There are 2 center jacking points, one on the front (where a metal plate protrudes from the plastic underside), one at the back, at the center of the subframe.

The rear subframe is another good place to install jack stands.
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      02-22-2013, 03:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
Do not use scissor jacks to secure a car. Use only self locking jack stands.

The jack stand are supposed to go in the jack points. It's not clear if putting them randomly under the frame will not damage the frame. There are 2 center jacking points, one on the front (where a metal plate protrudes from the plastic underside), one at the back, at the center of the subframe.

The rear subframe is another good place to install jack stands.
sorry i misspoke, not scissor jacks, i meant double locking jack stands.

so i should use the Y shaped locking jack stands on the 4 jack points?
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      02-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #5
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Yes, and you should then use the center jacking points to get the car "high". Start from the front, then the rear.
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      02-22-2013, 04:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
Yes, and you should then use the center jacking points to get the car "high". Start from the front, then the rear.
i am not sure how the Y jack stand will fit around the square shaped jack points?
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      02-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_335Ci View Post
i am not sure how the Y jack stand will fit around the square shaped jack points?
You need these: http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...nd_Blocks.html

First, you may have to use this with your normal jack, and raise up each front wheel 3" off the ground, high enough to put some 12"x2" blocks of wood under each front wheel. Then lower your jack out. Your car's front wheels are now on the wood, and the car is higher off the ground. Find the central jacking point of your car (haven't looked under mine yet), and jack up from there.... should be close to the oil pan. You have to lift the car on wood blocks first, else there is not enough clearance to get your jack underneath.

Once you've jacked up the front, use those Reverse Logic pads on top of your Y-shaped stands and stick them under the front jack points. Release jack, and do the same thing for the rear. Except you won't have to raise the rear tires onto wood first, because you should have enough clearance to hit a central jack point near the rear axle.
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      02-22-2013, 05:14 PM   #8
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I'm not a fan of placing jackstands at the jack points on the rocker. I prefer locating them toward the outer ends of the front and rear subframes.
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      02-22-2013, 06:09 PM   #9
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I'm not a fan of placing jackstands at the jack points on the rocker. I prefer locating them toward the outer ends of the front and rear subframes.
Me either. When I was plastidipping my wheels, in order to save a little time, I jacked up the front using the jack pad and got the car high enough to lower the rear onto a regular jack stand (y-notched). It worked, but I was nervous of it slipping the whole time. Plus, the outer rim of the plastic was actually taking all the vehicle weight and not the actual frame. Before I do anything else that requires jacking up my car, I'm definitely investing in some jack pads that will fit in the slots.
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      02-22-2013, 07:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by diesel86 View Post
Me either. When I was plastidipping my wheels, in order to save a little time, I jacked up the front using the jack pad and got the car high enough to lower the rear onto a regular jack stand (y-notched). It worked, but I was nervous of it slipping the whole time. Plus, the outer rim of the plastic was actually taking all the vehicle weight and not the actual frame. Before I do anything else that requires jacking up my car, I'm definitely investing in some jack pads that will fit in the slots.
I'm actually talking about the jack "slots". I would never jack the pinch weld. There's no "frame" to be found along the rockers on a unibody shell. The plastic rocker covers weren't holding the car, the steel rocker underneath was. While the pinch weld is actually strong enough to hold the car, it's not a very good idea.
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      02-22-2013, 09:10 PM   #11
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The jack points were resting on top of the slots in the stands. On the F30 I don't think you can even see the pinch weld seam can you? Aren't they completely covered by the plastic rocker cover?
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      02-22-2013, 09:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianFanatic View Post
I'm not a fan of placing jackstands at the jack points on the rocker. I prefer locating them toward the outer ends of the front and rear subframes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel86 View Post
Me either. When I was plastidipping my wheels, in order to save a little time, I jacked up the front using the jack pad and got the car high enough to lower the rear onto a regular jack stand (y-notched). It worked, but I was nervous of it slipping the whole time. Plus, the outer rim of the plastic was actually taking all the vehicle weight and not the actual frame. Before I do anything else that requires jacking up my car, I'm definitely investing in some jack pads that will fit in the slots.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianFanatic View Post
I'm actually talking about the jack "slots". I would never jack the pinch weld. There's no "frame" to be found along the rockers on a unibody shell. The plastic rocker covers weren't holding the car, the steel rocker underneath was. While the pinch weld is actually strong enough to hold the car, it's not a very good idea.
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The jack points were resting on top of the slots in the stands. On the F30 I don't think you can even see the pinch weld seam can you? Aren't they completely covered by the plastic rocker cover?

Did you guys read my post right above? You don't need to rest the Y-jack stands on a weld pinch. Buy the little blocks, and do it the safe/correct way!
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      02-22-2013, 09:44 PM   #13
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Hence why I stated in my original post that before I jacked up the car again using stands, I would be purchasing jack pad/blocks.
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      02-22-2013, 09:48 PM   #14
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Did you guys read my post right above? You don't need to rest the Y-jack stands on a weld pinch. Buy the little blocks, and do it the safe/correct way!
...and as I said above, I don't even like to use the jack pads. I prefer the subframes.

I only use the jack pads to actually jack it up.
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      02-22-2013, 11:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianFanatic View Post
...and as I said above, I don't even like to use the jack pads. I prefer the subframes.

I only use the jack pads to actually jack it up.
where on the subframe do you propose positioning 4 x Y-notched jack stands, if i used the jack pads/points to lift the car?
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      02-23-2013, 10:53 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_335Ci View Post
where on the subframe do you propose positioning 4 x Y-notched jack stands, if i used the jack pads/points to lift the car?
I position them differently depending upon what I'm working on so they aren't going to be in the way. In your case, you're just pulling wheels so I'd suggest just positioning them toward the outboard ends of the control arms or at the knuckles. You could also locate them toward the inboard ends or under the subframes near the mounting points. The main thing is making sure you have good, solid contact with your stands. Choosing a location that is reinforced and toward a solid mounting point is the other key. You don't generally want to position stands in the middle of a member.
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      02-23-2013, 05:57 PM   #17
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Standard Y shaped jack stand saddles have never mixed with BMWs for ages. I took my plastic lifting blocks off and I place the jack stands where the blocks snap in. Feels more secure to me than trying to use the plastic blocks. Its just a bad interfsce no matter what you try. Ideally you'd find some flat top jack stands like AC or Esco.

In addition I ALWAYS add massive wood blocks I made out of 2x12s. Basically like 12" cubes of solid wood. Mine are probably a little taller than 12" though
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      02-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
Standard Y shaped jack stand saddles have never mixed with BMWs for ages. I took my plastic lifting blocks off and I place the jack stands where the blocks snap in. Feels more secure to me than trying to use the plastic blocks. Its just a bad interfsce no matter what you try. Ideally you'd find some flat top jack stands like AC or Esco.

In addition I ALWAYS add massive wood blocks I made out of 2x12s. Basically like 12" cubes of solid wood. Mine are probably a little taller than 12" though
I use massive silicone auxiliary jackstands...

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