[JPC Moose]

Originally Posted by rado

Yes, the plastic drain plug takes an o-ring. The BMW replacement oil filter included a plastic bag with replacement o-rings *and* a metal crush washer, but there was no need for the metal washer. I assume some other model takes the same oil filter and has a conventional metal oil plug (and pan) that takes the washer.

BTW, a low range torque wrench and 3/8" hex driver (socket) is good to have for reseating the oil drain plug, as the tightening spec (marked on the plug) is only 7 N-m (62 in-lb). You could do it by feel, but the tendency would probably be to over-torque it.

HTH,

I guess I'll be going back to get the correct o-rings and oil filter. I bought six quarts of oil and an oil filter and he gave me a metal flat washer lose with the filter.

Thanks for the info

[RadRyDawg]

Originally Posted by rado

Yes, the plastic drain plug takes an o-ring. The BMW replacement oil filter included a plastic bag with replacement o-rings *and* a metal crush washer, but there was no need for the metal washer. I assume some other model takes the same oil filter and has a conventional metal oil plug (and pan) that takes the washer.

BTW, a low range torque wrench and 3/8" hex driver (socket) is good to have for reseating the oil drain plug, as the tightening spec (marked on the plug) is only 7 N-m (62 in-lb). You could do it by feel, but the tendency would probably be to over-torque it.

HTH,

You're kidding. 5 ft-lbs??? If its on the plug I suppose...

[Socom]

Originally Posted by Mrcarcrazy

BMW only cares that the car functions flawlessly til the end of warranty....after that it's not their problem. Think about it for a second.

Absolutely everything passes through a cost/benefit calculator. If cost> benefit, then x doesn't happen. If Benefit to BMW > Cost then x does happen.

Oil changes are a perfect example. Oil has improved, filters have improved, engines have improved....the years of 3k oil changes are gone. However how much you are willing to go over that is your choice. BMW says your car will be fine til the end of its warranty with 15k oil changes....So if not owning past warranty who cares? If you plan on keeping it past warranty then you should care and possibly think on your own vs. trusting other people.

Was watching the N20 build video and came across this thread. Of course everyone is entitled to their opinions but one should at least become familiar with the ACEA and their specifications. Specifically A3/B4 and C3*

*Euro owners who have low sulphur high quality petrol.

[1lyfe]

Originally Posted by h42492

Hi, i'm planning to change engine oil by myself too for every 5000km since 20000km is too much for me. and i hear some people say that if i change engine oil myself the computer system will some how have some problems, like always showing engine oil has problem or whatever, so do you mind to tell me how did you avoid those problems with the computers? thank you very much

you just wont be able to reset the oil change interval programed into the car.
for example if your car says at 20 000kms you need an oil change and you change it at 15 000kms, when you hit 20 000kms the computer will still put out a warning light saying you need an oil change.

you need to get someone to code the light away or i think the secret menu can reset oil change intervals (not eben sure if f30s have them, im still waiting for mine to come in).

[granny]

[My 2013 328i has a different undercarriage-extended steel piece to shield oil pan. Also, now uses regular oil plug and crush washer. Oil drain in same location?

[jwilly]

Originally Posted by granny

[My 2013 328i has a different undercarriage-extended steel piece to shield oil pan. Also, now uses regular oil plug and crush washer. Oil drain in same location?

Pics, build date?
My 2013 September build date does not have these.
Thanks,
Joel

[CKau]

As i am waiting for delivery of my f30 i want to know if the oil filter is easy to replace? Anyone know where it is located?

Is it a widely available design or a newer / proprietary one?

[SamE30]

Originally Posted by 1lyfe

you just wont be able to reset the oil change interval programed into the car.
for example if your car says at 20 000kms you need an oil change and you change it at 15 000kms, when you hit 20 000kms the computer will still put out a warning light saying you need an oil change.

you need to get someone to code the light away or i think the secret menu can reset oil change intervals (not eben sure if f30s have them, im still waiting for mine to come in).

F30's need to be connected to an ISID (BMW diagnostics) to reset the CBS.

Originally Posted by CKau

As i am waiting for delivery of my f30 i want to know if the oil filter is easy to replace? Anyone know where it is located?

Is it a widely available design or a newer / proprietary one?

It is right on top of the engine on the driver side. The dealer sells them, not too expensive.

[CKau]

Originally Posted by SamE30

F30's need to be connected to an ISID (BMW diagnostics) to reset the CBS.



It is right on top of the engine on the driver side. The dealer sells them, not too expensive.

Thanks. I'm a bit confused as what to replace. I refer to this thread... mine putting your thoughts over there?

Thanks again!

http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759977

[SamE30]

Originally Posted by CKau

Thanks. I'm a bit confused as what to replace. I refer to this thread... mine putting your thoughts over there?

Thanks again!

http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759977

Replace #3 and #13 then re-use #2 and torque.

#3 is the filter
#13 is the thick O-ring

[rado]

Originally Posted by RadRyDawg

You're kidding. 5 ft-lbs??? If its on the plug I suppose...

No, not kidding, and yes, it's written on the plug. It's a plastic plug, threaded into a plastic oil pan, so it doesn't take a whole lotta torque.

[rado]

Originally Posted by granny

[My 2013 328i has a different undercarriage-extended steel piece to shield oil pan. Also, now uses regular oil plug and crush washer. Oil drain in same location?

I'd love to see pics of that, because your description doesn't match my late-July build 2013 328i.

[slmdgee]

How high is our oil pan? Is it strong enough to take a hit? I am looking to slam my car.

[SamE30]

Originally Posted by rado

No, not kidding, and yes, it's written on the plug. It's a plastic plug, threaded into a plastic oil pan, so it doesn't take a whole lotta torque.

N20's still have aluminum pans and a steel plug. You may be referring to the transmission pan that's plastic.

[Number]

Originally Posted by slmdgee

How high is our oil pan? Is it strong enough to take a hit? I am looking to slam my car.

The oil pan on my 335 is reasonably high. I imagine the 328 should have the pan in a similar position. I think it's high enough that you'll catastrophically damage other things before you damage the oil pan. Basically, when you're riding slammed, the oil pan will only be a fractional part of many worries. Good luck.

[rado]

Originally Posted by SamE30

N20's still have aluminum pans and a steel plug. You may be referring to the transmission pan that's plastic.

I've changed my oil, and the oil pan (and plug) are most definitely black plastic. I have a US 2013 328i with 6MT (model 133N according to the build sheet), and the label on the hood says "ULEV", *not* "SULEV". So either you are wrong, the BMW docs are wrong and I have an N26, or they have changed the oil pan on the N20. Which do you suppose it is (seriously)?

[rado]

Originally Posted by rado

I've changed my oil, and the oil pan (and plug) are most definitely black plastic. I have a US 2013 328i with 6MT (model 133N according to the build sheet), and the label on the hood says "ULEV", *not* "SULEV". So either you are wrong, the BMW docs are wrong and I have an N26, or they have changed the oil pan on the N20. Which do you suppose it is (seriously)?

I did a bit more research, and I think I've found the explanation. From browsing the RealOEM parts database it appears that all F30 328i N20's and N26's have a plastic oil pan (and plastic plug), the F30 328iX N20 and N26 have metal oil pans (and metal plug). I was assuming it was an N20 vs N26 issue, when in reality it's a 328i vs 328iX issue.

[slmdgee]

so ur saying the 328i rwd 6mt has a aluminum oil pan?

[S-Dot]

Originally Posted by slmdgee

so ur saying the 328i rwd 6mt has a aluminum oil pan?

I don't read it that way. I read it as:

XDrive 328i - metal
RWD 328i - plastic

[slmdgee]

thats odd.

[diesel86]

Did my first oil change yesterday at 6200 miles and other than having to jack up the car on to my ramps, it was pretty uneventful. One thing I noticed is that this car is low!! It doesn't seem any lower than my previous car (lowered VW GLI), but even after the car was on the ramps, I had very little room to move around. Maybe it's the full-length underbody tray, but I felt a little claustrophobic down there.

Filled mine up with Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro formula. Found it at Wal-Mart for $6.99 qt. Was a little hesitant to use the 40, but since I live in PHX and my car is inside mostly, I figured I'd be fine. One thing I wonder is that since these are out of "Scheduled Maintenance" changes, couldn't I just use an SM rated oil not specified by BMW. I mean, the BMW LL is supposed to be used because they figure that most owners only change oil based on when their car tells them to, so maybe it has to last longer, but since I'll change mine somewhere between 5-7.5k miles, do we really need to hunt around for the pricey Euro-formula stuff?

[rado]

Originally Posted by S-Dot

I don't read it that way. I read it as:

XDrive 328i - metal
RWD 328i - plastic

That's correct.